Epsilon Archive for Student Projects

Abstract

This master's thesis investigates the dynamics of the Second-Hand Clothing (SHC) trade between the Global North (GN) and Global South (GS), focusing on the rewear, reuse, and recycling initiatives exemplified by a case study of H&M's Let’s Close the Loop campaign. The study delves into the environmental- and social impacts of SHC importation in the GS, particularly exploring the sustainability of SHC in Ghana and Kenya, major importers in the SHC trade. Through analysis of sustainability reports and interviews, the research aims to uncover how H&M addresses and mitigates associated risks with collected used clothing. Additionally, this study incorporates perspectives from actors involved with SHC in Ghana and Kenya to shed light on local responses to SHC disposal. The findings reveal contradictions in H&M's claims of circularity and sustainability, upholding certain narratives around SHC through the campaign. The implications for development and natural resource management are significant as the findings also highlight some social- and environmental consequences. Including, financial instability for sellers with many facing debt due to declining quality and unpredictable sales. Additionally, SHC imports have undermined local textile industries and culture, while contributing to significant environmental harm through textile waste, pollution, and overburdened landfills. The disposal of unsellable clothing from the Global North not only disrupts local economies but also exacerbates ecological degradation, creating a worsening crisis. Interview findings and reports also exposes broader systematic maintenance of waste colonialism through the SHC trade. These insights underscore the need for critical examination of H&M's sustainability initiatives and broader implications within the SHC industry.